Are Brooches Becoming the New Tiaras?

A conversation with Sandra Cronan

by Michalina Franasik - Photographer, Writer, Treasure House Fair Communications Manager.

The Met Gala has long been fashion’s most anticipated night—a spectacle where creativity, celebrity, and couture collide under a unifying theme. Much like TEFAF is to the art world, the Met Gala is fashion’s cultural apex, a platform where craftsmanship and symbolism are on full display. This year’s theme, “Tailored for You,” tied to the Costume Institute’s exhibition “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” offered more than sartorial inspiration—it reignited interest in jewellery's most symbolic accessory: the brooch.

We asked vintage jewellery dealer Sandra Cronan, whose collection includes everything from 17th century through to the early 20th century, about this renewed fascination

What brooch would you wear to the Met Gala, if you had a chance to go? And how would you style it?
“Pairs of double clips. They are so chic yet not many people wear them.”


Sandra was wearing a pair of Art Deco Diamond Double Clips. The clips are set with round diamonds and baguette cut diamonds. Can be worn as a brooch or separately as clips. Mounted in platinum. American, circa 1930.

Rooted in utility and elevated to artistry, brooches have traced the arc of human history. From Bronze Age pins to Celtic fibulae, Victorian mourning jewels, and flamboyant Belle Époque aigrettes, the brooch has always bridged fashion and function, status and sentiment. Now, after decades in the background, brooches are making a bold return—gracing red carpets, runways, and museum exhibitions alike, including the recently opened Cartier show at the V&A in London. The exhibition explores Cartier’s legacy as a jeweller to royalty and icons, placing special emphasis on its innovative designs and enduring influence. One of the show’s highlights is the legendary Tutti Frutti double clips and matching bracelet— a favourite of vintage jewellery specialist Sandra Cronan, who admires its creativity and innovation, particularly the bold use of contrasting coloured stones, which was groundbreaking at the time.

Nowhere was this more evident than at the 2025 Met Gala, where brooches adorned necklines, lapels, and even hairstyles of all the invited celebrities and VIPs. This revival is not just nostalgic—it’s political, personal, and highly visual. Aligned with the gala's theme, brooches acted as tools of self-expression, connecting with the tradition of Black Dandyism: the use of dress as an act of identity, and cultural pride. This social and fashion movement evolved as a powerful form of resistance in the 18th century when black men adopted refined European dress to challenge racist stereotypes and assert dignity, intellect, and individuality. It gained particular momentum in the 1920s during the Harlem Renaissance, when Harlem became a vibrant epicenter of Black intellectual and artistic life, and style became a visual assertion of cultural pride and autonomy. Over time, it has influenced global fashion by introducing bold tailoring, rich textures, and a redefinition of elegance rooted in cultural pride and political defiance. 

Details of Sandra's outfit.

What are your thoughts on this year’s Met Gala theme, and how would you comment on the attendees’ styling in relation to it?
"Black dandyism is a great theme because there are so many examples of stylish black men in the past: Sammie Davis Junior, Harry Bellafonte just to name two. On the red carpet we’ve seen modern versions of it, which is interesting because it means it is evolving, it’s alive and thriving. We especially loved celebrities wearing jewellery in untraditional ways – Zendaya's Victorian Diamond Serpent Brooch from 1850s on the back of the jacket, Khaby Lame wearing multiple watches on his vest, many brooches together on the lapels, brooches on the hats!"


Left: A New Orleans 'black dandy' character from Mrs. Houstoun’s Yachting in the New World 1844. Public Domain. Right: Sandra Cronan's interpretation of this year’s theme. 

Brooches seem to be making a stylish comeback—what do you think is driving their renewed popularity in contemporary fashion?
“Brooches are making a comeback especially thanks to men. They are wearing them in a very stylish way and they all look super confident, which is great! They are also versatile: you can wear them in different ways, as we’ve seen on the red carpet on Monday night, and on different occasions, on dressy outfits but also on more relaxed/daily fits.”

What was your favourite brooch and styling on MET Gala this year?
“Lewis Hamilton looked great with his brooch on the lapel and on the hat, many rings and cufflinks. I liked the extravagance of it, but everything fit together perfectly. Rihanna was amazing as well, with her double clips on the collar!”

Today’s red carpet jewellery trends reflect a broader shift toward slow fashion—where individuality, craftsmanship, and narrative take precedence over mass-produced sparkle. While modern jewellery houses like Van Cleef & Arpels, Graff, and Hemmerle continue to dazzle with their technical brilliance, an increasing number of stylists are turning to vintage and archival pieces to make a statement. This return to the roots of fashion was clearly visible in the styling at this year’s Met Gala, especially in Sarah Snook's look, who wore, among others, a Diamond Cascade Brooch from the 1950s and a Victorian Diamond Brooch from the 1890s. 

With the Met Gala just behind us, what kinds of vintage jewellery trends—brooches included—stood out to you most this year?
"Diamond necklaces for sure, but also fun shapes especially in brooches: flowers, animals, hearts. Also big colourful stones, like aquamarines, emeralds, etcs. In general, it looks like people want to have fun with jewellery!"

Can you share a memorable brooch from your collection and tell us what makes it special, either historically or stylistically?
“The Green Tourmaline & Diamond Brooch by Cartier, which has both an amazing design and a special story. It’s called “escalator” style and the term refers to the brooch’s stepped design, which mimics the upwards movement of escalators, invented at the beginning of the 20th century. Its geometric style reflects the rational aesthetic of Art Deco, and it is enhanced by the contrast between green tourmalines and diamonds. It is a set with square baguette cut green tourmalines and diamonds and can be separated to be worn as a pair of dress clips. Made circa 1940 in America from 18ct yellow gold.”

Cartier, A Green Tourmaline and Diamond Brooch. Mounted in 18ct yellow gold. American, circa 1940.

While traditionally associated with women’s dress, brooches are finding their way into modern menswear. Paired with silk suiting or minimalist tailoring, they add dimension and intention to a look. This year's Met Gala proved that brooches—can be just as powerful as a tiara, if not more so.